Six Days in Puglia

It’s been quite a while since I last wrote anything. Life has been busy, and somehow I never found the time. But over the past few days, I’ve been thinking about it. It doesn’t seem right that work and everyday worries can pull us in so quickly that we almost forget all the beautiful moments, as if they never happened.

I love taking photos, and it always feels a little sad to simply delete old ones to make room for new memories. Even though the years are quietly adding up, I still love travelling by camper van. No fixed itinerary, no detailed plans—every day brings a new adventure. We usually have only a rough destination in mind and no idea where we’ll spend the night. There’s something wonderful about having grown-up children while still feeling young enough to set off on spontaneous road trips.

So here’s a short story about our six-day journey through southern Italy in early May, exploring the beautiful region of Puglia.

Že nekaj časa nisem ničesar napisala, veliko se je dogajalo v mojem življenju, pa nisem našla časa,… V zadnjih dneh pa sem se malo zamislila. Ni prav, da nas delo in vsakdanje skrbi tako hitro posrkajo vase, da kar takoj pozabimo na vse lepe trenutke, kot da ti sploh ne obstajajo.

Pa rada fotografiram in kar malo škoda se mi zdi, da potem samo pobrišem vse te slike in spet slikam nove. Ja, in čeprav se leta počasi nabirajo, se mi potepanja s kombijem še vedno zdijo tako super, brez točno določenega načrta, vsak dan prinese svoja doživetja, samo približno si določiva cilj in nimava pojma, kje bova zvečer spala. Zdi dobro, da imava odrasle otroke in se počutiva še čisto mlada.

Zato na kratko o najinem potepanju v začetku maja, ko sva preživela šest dni v južni Italiji, točneje v Apuliji.

Vieste and Gargano National Park
After a full day of driving, we finally reached the Gargano Peninsula and parked in the charming town of Vieste. Although we were already tired from the journey, we wandered through its narrow streets as night began to fall. The whitewashed town, perched above the Adriatic Sea, is full of charming alleys, cosy cafés, and breathtaking views. It also makes the perfect base for exploring Gargano National Park, one of the wildest and most unspoiled parts of Puglia.

Vieste in narodni park Gargano
Po celodnevni vožnji sva končno zavila na polotok Gargano in parkirala v kraju Vieste. Sicer že malo utrujena od vožnje, sva se sprehajala po mestecu, ko se je že nočilo. Belo mestece, ki se dviga nad Jadranskim morjem, navduši z ozkimi uličicami, malimi kavarnami in čudovitimi razgledi. Hkrati je odlično izhodišče za raziskovanje narodnega parka Gargano, enega najbolj divjih in neokrnjenih delov Apulije.

Foresta Umbra
The following day, we visited Foresta Umbra, a complete contrast to the coastal landscape. Hidden in the heart of Gargano National Park, this ancient forest is filled with majestic beech and oak trees, peaceful walking trails, and refreshing shade. We spent some time watching fish and turtles in a small lake. It’s hard to believe that only a few kilometres away lies the sunny Mediterranean coastline.

Foresta Umbra
Že naslednji dan sva obiskala Foresto Umbro, čisto nasprotje obalnim krajem. Gozd v osrčju narodnega parka Gargano je poln mogočnih bukev in hrastov, prijetne sence ter mirnih sprehajalnih poti. V jezeru sva občudovala ribe in želve. Težko verjameš, da se le nekaj kilometrov stran razprostira povsem drugačna, sončna obala.
Baia delle Zagare
Baia delle Zagare is one of those places that looks even more beautiful in real life than in photographs. White limestone cliffs, turquoise water, and the iconic sea stacks create one of the most spectacular views in Puglia.
We didn’t want to admire the bay only from above, so we made our way down to the beach. Reaching it turned out to be a bit of an adventure, and we had to improvise along the way. Access to some of Puglia’s beaches is often restricted and requires payment during the summer season.

Baia delle Zagare
Baia delle Zagare je eden tistih krajev, ki v resnici izgledajo še lepše kot na fotografijah. Bele apnenčaste pečine, turkizno morje in znamenita skalna osamelca ustvarjajo enega najlepših razgledov v Apuliji.
Zaliva nisva hotela občudovati le z razgledne točke, ampak sva se spustila do plaže. Dostop do nje je bil kar kompliciral in malo sva se znašla po svoje. Dostop do nekaterih plaž v Apulije je namreč plačljiv in možen le v poletnih mesecih.
Olive Groves of Gargano
Driving through Gargano, in fact, throughout most of Puglia, we quickly realised that olive trees accompany almost every kilometre of the journey. Endless groves, many of them home to centuries-old trees, are one of the region’s defining features.

Oljčni nasadi na Garganu
Med vožnjo po Garganu in pravzaprav po celi Apuliji sva hitro ugotovila, da oljke spremljajo skoraj vsak kilometer poti. Neskončni nasadi, med katerimi rastejo tudi stoletna drevesa, so značilen del pokrajine.
Polignano a Mare
Our next stop was the beautiful town of Polignano a Mare. Here, white houses cling dramatically to cliffs above the sea, while the famous Lama Monachile beach lies tucked away below. We were perfectly happy simply sitting on the beach, watching the waves and enjoying the peaceful atmosphere.

Polignano a Mare
Najin naslednji postanek je bil v mestecu Polignano a Mare. Tu hiše stojijo na visokih pečinah nad morjem, pod njimi pa se skriva znamenita plaža Lama Monachile. Nama je bilo čisto lepo samo sedeti na plaži in opazovati morje.
Locorotondo
Locorotondo became one of our favourite small towns in Puglia. White houses, flower-filled balconies, and quiet streets create a wonderfully relaxed atmosphere where time seems to slow down. Compared to the more crowded destinations, it feels authentic and peaceful.
We explored the town both in the evening and again the following morning. There were far fewer visitors than in nearby Alberobello, and the atmosphere felt incredibly romantic.

Locorotondo
Locorotondo je bilo eno naših najljubših manjših mestec v Apuliji. Bele hiše, cvetoči balkoni in mirne uličice ustvarjajo sproščeno vzdušje, zaradi katerega se tukaj čas skoraj ustavi. V primerjavi z bolj obiskanimi kraji deluje pristno in veliko bolj umirjeno.
Na sprehodu po mestu sva bila zvečer in naslednji dan zjutraj. Obiskovalcev je bilo tu veliko manj kot v bližnjem Arberobellu, vzdušje pa tako romantično.
Alberobello
A visit to Alberobello is almost a must on any trip to Puglia. This was actually our second visit.
Walking among the famous trulli feels like stepping into a fairy tale, as this unique architecture can’t be found anywhere else in the world. If you have the chance, visit early in the morning or later in the evening, when the crowds are smaller and the town becomes even more magical.

Alberobello
Obisk Alberobella je skoraj obvezen na vsakem potovanju po Apuliji. Midva sva bila tu že drugič. Sprehod med znamenitimi truliji je kot obisk pravljične vasice, saj takšne arhitekture ne najdete nikjer drugje na svetu. Če imate možnost, ga obiščite zgodaj zjutraj ali proti večeru, ko je manj obiskovalcev in je vzdušje še posebej čarobno.
Ostuni
Ostuni truly deserves its nickname, the White City. Around every corner, you'll discover new viewpoints, staircases, and charming little squares.

Ostuni
Ostuni upravičeno nosi ime Belo mesto. Med sprehodom po ozkih ulicah vas za vsakim vogalom pričakajo novi razgledi, stopnišča in prikupni trgi.
The Ancient Olive Trees of Ostuni
The countryside around Ostuni is home to some of Europe’s oldest olive trees. Many are several hundred years old, while some have stood here for more than a thousand years. Their enormous twisted trunks are natural works of art, and driving through these endless olive groves is one of the most memorable experiences in Puglia.
Sadly, especially on the Salento Peninsula, vast areas are filled with dead olive trees, standing leafless and black. Driving through endless rows of these lifeless trees is strangely heartbreaking, almost like travelling through a cemetery of trees.

Tisočletne oljke pri Ostuniju
Okolica Ostunija je znana po nekaterih najstarejših oljkah v Evropi. Mnoge so stare več sto, nekatere pa celo več kot tisoč let. Njihova mogočna, zvita debla so prava naravna umetnina in vožnja skozi te neskončne oljčne nasade je eno najbolj značilnih doživetij Apulije.
V Apuliji, največ na polotoku Salento, pa žal vidimo neskončne nasade odmrlih dreves oljk, brez enega samega zelenega listka. Ko se voziš po cesti med ogromnimi posušenimi črnimi drevesi, postaneš čudno žalosten, kot bi se vozil med pokopališči dreves.
Lecce
Lecce is famous for its magnificent Baroque architecture, lively squares, and beautiful churches. It’s one of those cities where the best thing to do is simply get lost among its narrow streets and soak up the atmosphere.
The city also has its own famous pastry, Pasticciotto Leccese. Of course, we had to try it.

Lecce
Lecce je znano po bogati baročni arhitekturi, živahnimi trgi in cerkvami. To je kraj, kjer se je najlepše preprosto izgubiti med ozkimi ulicami in uživati v njegovem posebnem vzdušju. Mesto ima tudi svojo sladico, Pasticciotto Leccese. Seveda sva jo poskusila.
Grotta della Poesia
Grotta della Poesia is a stunning natural limestone swimming pool. We visited in early May, when the cliffs surrounding the bay were covered with wildflowers. Combined with the crystal-clear turquoise water, the scenery was simply breathtaking.
The area is also known for its archaeological significance, with ancient tombs and inscriptions discovered nearby. Besides swimming, it’s a fascinating place to explore on foot. This is definitely one of the places you shouldn’t miss while travelling through Puglia.

Grotta della Poesia
Grotta della Poesia je naravni kraški bazen. Tam sva bila v začetku maja, ko so bile pečine okoli zaliva prekrite s divjimi rožicami. Skupaj s kristalno čistim turkiznim morjem ustvarjajo prizor, ki ga je težko opisati z besedami.
Območje znano tudi po arheoloških ostankih, saj so v bližini odkrili antične grobnice in napise. Poleg plavanja je zato zelo zanimivo raziskovati okolico. Tega kraja med potepanjem po Apuliji res ne gre izpustiti.
Faraglioni di Sant'Andrea
Faraglioni di Sant'Andrea is a spectacular stretch of coastline with towering white cliffs, natural stone arches, and deep blue water. It’s a wonderful place for a swim or simply for a walk along one of the most beautiful coastlines in the region.

Faraglioni di Sant'Andrea
Faraglioni di Sant'Andrea je obala z visokimi belimi pečinami, naravni kamniti oboki, obdani z modrim morjem. Kraj za kopanje ali sprehod ob res posebni obali.
That evening, we stayed at a small campsite whose name I’ve unfortunately forgotten. The next morning, despite a light drizzle, we set off to explore the surrounding forest and coastline. We hardly met another person. It turned out to be one of the most beautiful walks of the entire trip.
Zvečer sva prespala v majhnem kampu, ima kraja sem pozabila. Zjutraj sva šla v rahlem dežju raziskovat okolico, skozi gozd, ob obali, brez ljudi, najlepši sprehod.
Cava di Bauxite
The next day brought more rain, but we continued our journey. The abandoned bauxite quarry near Otranto became one of the highlights of our trip. Red earth, an emerald-green lake, and lush vegetation create an extraordinary landscape. The only thing missing was a little sunshine.
Although it’s not a long visit, it’s certainly one of the most photogenic places in Puglia. Because of the cloudy weather, the colours weren’t as vibrant as they usually are. The rain also turned the paths into thick mud that quickly covered our hiking shoes.

Cava di Bauxite
Naslednji dan je malo deževalo, ampak midva sva hitela naprej. Zapuščeni rudnik boksita pri Otrantu je bil ena najlepših točk najinega potovanja. Rdeča zemlja, smaragdno zeleno jezerce in okoliško zelenje ustvarjajo čudovit prizor. Manjkal je le kakšen sončni žarek. 
Čeprav obisk ni dolg, je to zagotovo ena najbolj fotogeničnih točk v Apuliji. Ker sva imela deževno in oblačno vreme, barve niso tako izrazite. V dežju pokrajina postane precej blatna in na najinih čevljih se je nabiralo na kupe blata.
Gallipoli
Gallipoli has a very different character from most coastal towns in Puglia. Its historic centre sits on a small island surrounded by the sea, with narrow streets filled with beautiful churches, lively squares, and inviting restaurants.

Gallipoli
Gallipoli ima povsem drugačen značaj kot večina obalnih mest v Apuliji. Zgodovinsko jedro leži na majhnem otoku, obdanem z morjem, njegove ozke ulice pa skrivajo številne cerkve, trge in prijetne restavracije.
Gravina in Puglia
Gravina in Puglia was our final stop before heading home. The town stretches along a deep ravine crossed by its famous stone bridge, recognisable from the James Bond film No Time to Die.
Beneath the old town lies an extensive network of underground tunnels, ancient granaries, wine cellars, and cave dwellings. We managed to catch the last guided tour of the day—in Italian. Well... we probably guessed more than we actually understood, as our Italian isn’t quite good enough to follow every detail. But it was fascinating nonetheless.

Gravina in Puglia

Gravina in Puglia je bil najin zadnji postanek na poti domov. Mesto se razprostira ob globoki soteski, čez katero vodi znameniti kamniti most, ki ga lahko prepoznamo iz filma o Jamesu Bondu No time to die. Pod starim mestnim jedrom se skriva obsežen sistem podzemnih rovov, nekdanjih kašč, vinskih kleti in jamskih bivališč. Ujela sva zadnji voden obisk jam v italijanščini. No ja, nekaj stvari sva bolj uganila kot razumela, najino znanje italijanščine ne zadostuje, da bi razumela celotno zgodbo. Ampak vseeno je bilo zanimivo.
And then it was time to drive home. 
We stopped counting the kilometres a long time ago. Now we only count the beautiful moments.

Potem pa še vožnja domov. 
Prevoženih kilometrov že zdavnaj ne štejeva več, samo še lepe trenutke.






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